Rākaumangamanga (& Cape Brett Lighthouse)
a trail along the cape to an old lighthouse keepers quarters
Recent Travel Notes
Taking a brief intermission from my Pacific Crest Trail series to share some images from a recent trip to the Bay of Islands (Ipipiri). I’ve been over in Aotearoa a little longer than originally planned, working on some stories for Lodestars Anthology magazine and catching up with friends and family in the North Island.
Towards the beginning of my travels I took a trip up to Rākaumangamanga, also known as Cape Brett, the name was given by a young brown nosing Captain Cook who christened it after one of his superior officers. I was here to hike out to the old lighthouse keepers cottage, turned DoC Hut to stay overnight.
History of Rākaumangamanga
Rākaumangamanga loosely translates to The Seven Hills, it was a significant landing point, or the guiding beacon for the first seven Polynesian Waka that arrived in Aeoteroa. It’s crystalline rocks served as an important navigation tool, as they glimmer in the morning light. It’s a challenging 4-6 hour trail that loosely follows the ridge-line from Hauai Bay all the way along to Cape Brett Lighthouse and the DOC Hut.
The cape walk was mostly bush, blocking the coastal views whilst protecting you from the midday heat. The sounds of the bush made up for the views they impeded, insects that mimicked crackling forest fires and Cicadas in full symphony alongside the sweet aroma of Mānuka.
After Deep Water Cove the tree line opened up, granting views of steep sea cliffs and native bush that wrapped itself around the headland. Out at sea there were gannets and gulls feeding on the water, riding the thermals around Rākaumangamanga and the old lighthouse.
I sat by the lighthouse and watched the gannets and gulls, as well as a lone yacht that sailed between Rākaumangamanga and Motu Kōkako, otherwise known as ‘the hole in the rock’. From here The old lighthouse keepers cottage becomes visible and is a short walk down the hill and considerably more sheltered — it was converted to Department of Conservation hut in the 50’s and was renovated just last year.
It was a strange elongated night as the sunrise was blocked by the giant cliffs at the end of the cape. Waking up in the early hours I thought that the full moon was the rising sun, reflecting off the water as it hovered just above the horizon. Looking out the huts bay windows, moonlight reflected off the waves to the north west, the sights the lighthouse keepers must have seen here over the years.
Thanks for reading along with Beyond the Mountain Path, will be sharing tales from Oregon in my next instalment of the Pacific Crest Trail Series. I’ve found Substack to be such a great format for this series, and looking forward to sharing more travels on this magical platform.